Archive for November, 2007

Tinto

Thursday, November 29th, 2007

In the first few weeks of its existence, foodies and scenesters converged on Tinto, hungry for more of Jose Garces’s modern Spanish cuisine. But rather than Amada part deux, this time he switched focus to the pinxtos (small plates) of the Basque region. Having forgiven Tinto a few stumbles as it took its baby steps, a recent visit showed that this restaurant is still going through puberty.

Like Amada, Tinto has dishes that pander to foodies and dishes that pander to scenesters. As one might expect, the former are invariably more successful. The cheese selection was both diverse and delicious – Epoisses, La Peral and Monte Enebro (perennial favorites of mine) were served at optimal ripeness. With the exception of a farcically over-garliced Chorizo de Pamplona, the cured meats were inoffensive. Classics like Hongos (wild mushrooms) a la Plantxa, and Higos con Jamon (serrano ham-wrapped figs, drizzled with a viscous balsamic and fruity olive oil) were well-executed and eminently munchable – as pintxos should be. Vetri’s house-cured Chorizo remains the best ‘Spanish’ charcuterie in town.

Garces’s own creations are a little hit-or miss. The amuse bouche was quite impressive – a crisp tuile of baked Mahon cheese (a trick usually practiced with Parmeggiano Reggiano), with a smoked tomato aioli that was intense but not overwhelming. Similarly, the bacon wrapped lamb brochettes, neck-high in eggplant puree, would have been a barnstorming success if only the lamb had been a little less cooked and the eggplant a little more flavorful. Tinto should eschew gimmicks like truffle oil and ersatz ‘Kobe’ beef, which have no place in a serious restaurant. More alarming was the inconsistency I observed in one dish, the montadito de pato (a tartine of Serrano ham wrapped duck confit with Black cherry and La Peral), which was the highlight of my first visit. Though the duck confit had previously been tender and succulent, it was now scraggly and emaciated.

For a restaurant whose name means “red wine,” and whose logo is a corkscrew, I was expecting a tad more emphasis on wine. With so many bottles tessellating the restaurant in decoration, Tinto could surely find the space for some reds that aren’t from Rioja or Priorat. That said, the 2003 La Bastida Rioja Crianza, available by the glass, was sleek and charming. Equally apposite was the 2005 the Camin Larredya Jurançon Sec, from the French side of the Pyrenees, which was ripe, powerful and voluptuous.

Overall, Tinto is a useful addition to Philly’s collection of Spanish restaurants, but has not yet done enough to distinguish itself. Amada, its older sibling, is still the reference point for classic and modern Spanish preparations (with a higher ratio of hits to misses). Basque cooking is utterly dependent on the resplendent produce that is sadly not available in this country, and truffle oil is no way around this.

- Adley Zayan

Don’t Bother Making a Reservation

Tuesday, November 27th, 2007

Reservation Road
Directed by: Terry George
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Jennifer Connelly, Mark Ruffalo
Rated: R
Two stars

I got a very strange impression from watching the trailer of Reservation Road:

The film centers on the effect of a young boy’s death on his father (Joaquin Phoenix) and his killer (Mark Ruffalo), and while the style of the trailer suggested it was a thriller, the background music signaled a drama. I assumed that Terry George, the director of Hotel Rwanda, had his reasons for creating such a blatant contrast.

I think it was pure laziness. The film progresses like a paper in which paragraphs are simply thrown together rather than organized under a solid, coherent thesis. It could not decide which of its conflicting ideas was the central one. For example, at first it seems to be about learning to cope with a difficult situation. While Phoenix’s character has to discover how to manage his grief, Ruffalo’s has to accept responsibility for his actions. Suddenly, this vision is interrupted by a harsh and unresolved commentary on the justice system. The message that I ended up taking away was, “If I can accept that no one is looking for my son’s killer and refuse to take matters into my own hands, I’ll be fine.” Wait, that can’t be right…

Another instance of laziness is George’s resort to stereotyped film techniques. For example, the common sequence in which the camera zooms in on a character’s face and the background noise gradually dies down to show that they are ‘retreating into themselves’ appears several times over the course of the film.

Reservation Road contains some interesting ideas, but like any amateur academic paper, say on the justice system, these ideas are poorly organized and presented.

- Kira Muratova

A Whole New Definition of “Parking”

Tuesday, November 20th, 2007

P2
Directed by: Franck Khalfoun
Starring: Wes Bentley, Rachel Nichols
Rated: R

I know what some of you must be thinking, but happily (or sadly, depending on how you look at it), this film about Angela (Nichols) — a businesswoman pursued by Thomas (Bentley), a psychotic security guard, in a parking garage on Christmas Eve — is NOT torture porn.

P2, directed by newcomer Khalfoun, does not contribute anything new to the horror genre. But it does avoid some rather irritating cliches. For example, the heroine cannot be accused of acting foolishly. Not once did I think: “You are clearly a moron for going in there and you deserve to die.” Of course, there are some cheap thrills, such as the random opening scene (which gets explained later in the film), or the shot in which Thomas predictably appears out of the dark behind Angela. These moments, however, are minimal.

One should also give the film credit for trying to put a new spin on the villain even if the attempt proves a failure. Thomas is too complex of a character: he is sweet and caring, yet he has an inexplicable dark side. You never really know what to make of him. Does he suffer from multiple personalities? Is he aware of what he’s doing? Rather than intrigue the viewer, this two-sidedness annoys because it is clear that the film does not know how to explain it. His psychotic side seems more like something artificially pinned to his personality, which makes it difficult to consider him as a whole.

Additionally, it makes it hard to believe that Thomas poses a genuine threat to Angela. Yes, he tries to drown her by flooding the elevator in which she hides and, yes, he sends his vicious rottweiler after her, but he makes it clear that he is not interested in hurting her. All he seems to want is a date, albeit a rather twisted one. Perhaps instead of trying to escape, Angela might have been better off indulging him in a conversation and waiting until the morning came.

- Kira Muratova

Check out the trailer:

The “Savage Love” Podcast with Dan Savage

Tuesday, November 20th, 2007

“Don’t call me sir unless you are wearing a dog collar and are on your knees in my apartment.”

As college students we experience a newfound sexual independence from that of high school. We have our own rooms (sans parents), access to cheap/free birth control and the best lubricant of all — alcohol. With these new and exciting sexual freedoms, however, also come sexual responsibilities, dilemmas, and quandaries. Unfortunately, there are few platforms that attract students to discuss relevant sexual issues. Although we all grew up watching Talk Sex with Sue Johanson, what 18-22 year old honestly wants to listen to a 75-year-old woman with an Eastern European accent talk about vaginas? Luckily, thanks to the advent of podcasts, I’ve come across a refreshing, honest and hilariously entertaining podcast that both amuses and answers relevant questions about sex.

Dan Savage is best known for his sex column “Savage Love” in the Seattle weekly newspaper The Stranger. Within the past year, Savage has expanded his fan base by broadcasting a version of his sex column as a podcast. During the 40-minute program, callers leave messages describing questions relating to sex, relationships, and love. Sounds pretty standard, but with Savage’s witty banter, painfully honest advice and the variety of questions asked, Savage’s podcast is anything but “standard.”

Listeners call in expressing issues ranging from the difficulties of coming out within the Mormon community to a small white girl’s partner’s big dick causing her a lot of pain. Savage does not evade even the most provocative of sexual questions, providing a platform for all. With each question, Savage gets straight to the point often insulting his listeners, referring to them as “scrotums that are weak and nervous and you can’t even tap them without people screaming and falling to the floor” or glorifying them as “amazingly powerful human spitting-outy thingys.” Although at times Savage can be harsh (referring to callers as “stupid whores”), most appreciate his frankness. He is not malicious, but rather honest — sometimes people just need to hear that they are stupid whores.

At our age, we are just beginning to understand the complexities of sex. Savage’s podcast allows anyone with any sexual issues to discuss their problems in a comfortable and contemporary setting. Even if you’re not looking for answers to the problems you think you don’t have, listen up to Savage’s podcast. I guarantee that you will learn a thing or two about your own relationships, and probably get some useful sex tips too.

- Becca Greenfield

The Wonder Years: When Movie Theaters Were Cool

Monday, November 19th, 2007

Remember when going out to the movies used to be cool? When having your parents drop you off at the local multiplex with a group of your fellow giggling preteens proved that you were finally adult enough to “go out” with your friends unsupervised? Now, trying to find someone to go see a movie in theaters is like pulling teeth. I’ve heard every excuse in the book, from “It’s too expensive!” to “If I have to hear one more baby crying or cell phone go off, I’m going to shoot myself.” Of course, I could just assume that my friends are trying to find reasons not to hang out with me, but since they’re all perfectly willing to rent a DVD and watch a movie on the couch, I have to conclude that something deeper is going on here. Our generation just doesn’t want to go out to the movies anymore.

I admit, I’m hardly the first person to make this brilliant observation. And part of me wants to fall in with Gen Y’s home-entertainment-system philosophy. After all, $12 for a movie is ridiculous, and why make the effort to go out when it’s so much more convenient to have Netflix deliver movies right to your door? Well, at the risk of sounding like I’ve just stepped out of a 1920’s MGM ad, I’ll tell you why. There is something magical about seeing a movie in theaters: the communal experience. It’s almost thrilling to hear a room full of people laugh at the same moment, or to hear an utterly deafening silence at a film’s suspenseful climax. But even more satisfying than the feeling of universal enjoyment is the certainty that every other person in the theater is hating a movie as much as you are. You have absolutely no reason to identify with these totally random people, but, somehow, you feel like part of a community. A community with a two hour life span, perhaps, but a community all the same.

Case in point: I went to see Beowulf this weekend, an utterly terrible movie. During one of the more elaborate mythological sequences–and trust me, there are many–as I was feeling totally confused and thinking that if it weren’t for the cool 3D effects I would have walked out an hour ago, a man at the back of the theater grunted “I have no idea what the hell is going on!” There was a moment of silence, and then suddenly the entire theater just started laughing. Because none of us had any idea what was going on. And knowing that my theater-mates were my partners in confusion made me feel great. The movie sucked, but I walked out with a smile on my face. So no matter how convenient movie-watching at home becomes, I will always be a sucker for the cineplex.

- Jessica Spiegelman

Hit (or Miss?) Man

Sunday, November 18th, 2007

The first bit of good news about Hitman (opening in theaters this Wednesday) is that Uwe Boll’s name does not appear anywhere on the poster. Crisis averted. The second bit of good news? The film’s producer is Luc Besson, who directed the uber-stylish and entertaining The Fifth Element. So, there might be some hope for Agent 47’s big screen debut:

Adapting video games to film is tricky business, especially action games where plot is usually an afterthought. Judging from the movie’s trailer though, it looks like it’s getting at least one thing right: the style:

One reason I enjoyed the Hitman games was for their moodiness; they make gratuitous violence seem almost noble, with Agent 47 acting like a bald James Bond, only less flashy and more asexual. Those of you still reeling from the infamous 1993 Super Mario Bros. movie adaptation can rest assured that Hitman looks to be at least attempting to maintain the game series’ aesthetic. The trailer even has the “Ave Maria,” a song that was featured heavily in Hitman: Blood Money. Lets hope the movie draws on more music from the games, since their soundtracks (composed by Jesper Kyd) rank as some of the most cinematic in video game history.

We can be optimistic about this latest video-game-to-film adaptation. As long as we adjust our expectations to an appropriate level (which is sadly quite low) for the genre, Hitman could prove to be one of the more solid attempts to interpret a game as a movie. My only qualm is that the baby-faced Timothy Olyphant doesn’t look quite convincing as the stone-faced Agent 47. Does anyone else see the resemblance to Sinead O’Connor?

Mixin’ Up Philly Mexican

Wednesday, November 14th, 2007

You no longer have to choose between spending your entire monthly allowance at Lolita and signing a contractual agreement concerning vomiting at El Azteca. Molcajete Mixto, a welcome addition to the Philly BYOT scene, offers pitchers of lime and flavored margaritas as well as food that is vastly better than the greasy dishes served up at El Azteca, for prices between those of Lolita and its trashier cousin.

The spacious restaurant was inexplicably half-full when I dined there on a recent Friday night but our large group didn’t receive any bad looks from smaller tables even when we got a little loud. Still, the atmosphere isn’t quite as festive as it is at El Azteca, so if you’re not concerned about the quality of the food, or even interested in eating, then don’t bother seeking out this South Philly restaurante.

I only hope that El Azteca’s $50 puking charge won’t drive away too many customers and Molcajete Mixto will remain a more sedate and authentic alternative for BYOT Mexican as well as a sombrero-free zone.

Molcajete Mixto
8th and Christian Sts., 215-412-0171

- Maura Goldstein

CD Reviews

Monday, November 12th, 2007

by Alexis Ruby Howe

Guitar Hero III Legends of Rock – Companion Pack
4 Stars

Click, click, click, clack, clack — you’ re a superstar. Or at least you wish. We know that Guitar Hero III has already started to delight your college procrastination hearts (and fingers), but wait there’ s more! The producers of the Guitar Hero trilogy have realized their merchandizing potential and released this fantastic accompaniment album. Your favorite and most envied all-star musicians render the performances — from A.F.I. to the Smashing Pumpkins to Velvet Revolver. This album, like its three proceeding games, is rock heavy. The sounds are the ones you have come to love, and hate, while playing and have a lot of guitar (duh) and bass lines and screaming lead singers. This album is strong with a lot of good diddies. It doesn’t let up, but can be a little overwhelming at times. 4 stars for you!

Alice Smith
For Lovers, Dreamers and Me
New Album and CD Release Concert – October 31st, 2007
4.5 Stars

Alice Walker is the epitome of neo-soul. She is a brilliant young artist with a sound that makes your skin tingle. On her debut album, For Lovers, Dreamers and Me, Alice Smith wields her four-octave voice with a good measure of style and punk for ten fantastic songs. Think of her as a perfect combination between Alicia Keys and Feist — her songs range anywhere from rhythm and blues to indie wonders. And with this range there is no room for weakness — every one of her songs packs a whole lot of punch. “Love Endeavor” is a beautiful and emotive tale of young lovers, while her first single “Dream” (see below) is a climactic story of powerful love that causes lovers to, well love, “all night long.” Alice Smith is an up-and-coming artist that is certainly going places. Her album release concert at World Cafe Live was a show as full of energy as her CD. She comes across as someone so modest and full of life that it makes you want to get up and shoop-shoop. Bottom line: get this!

He’s-A-Back!

Saturday, November 10th, 2007

The reviews of Super Mario Galaxy (see below) are starting to pour in, with IGN giving the game a whopping 9.7 out of 10, and the average press rating according to IGN standing at 9.7 as of this writing. Our favorite Italian stereotype looks to be back in form (and finally proving that the Wii can support graphics of near-current-gen quality). Of course, you could argue that the Mario franchise was never really out of form, but I think we can all agree that it was time Nintendo let go of its obsession with sucking and squirting devices (see: Luigi’s Mansion and Super Mario Sunshine). It was an unhealthy obsession, at least on a Freudian level.

But I digress. It’s comforting to see that even if the Wii hype bubble ever does burst, Nintendo can always fall back on what they’ve always fallen back on — their trusty, chubby plumber.

In other news, we can consider the release of Galaxy to be a trumpet call to the start of holiday game release season, which will be in full swing over the next two weeks, what with big releases like Assassin’s Creed, Mass Effect and Uncharted: Drake’s Fortune, just to name a few. In addition, those of you willing to brave the ravenous masses on Black Friday can score some excellent deals on video games at Target, according to a highly confidential Target ad leaked onto the Internet. You can get the rundown on the deals here.

Go ahead, buy a copy of Gears of War for a loved one … or a copy of Spiderman: Friend or Foe for a not-so-loved one.

- Phil Malaczewski

Super Mario Galaxy

Lakeside Chinese Deli

Friday, November 9th, 2007

Lakeside Chinese Deli
207 N. 9th St., 215-925-3288
Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun, 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Finding the diamonds in Chinatown’s gastronomic rough can seem daunting, so it makes sense to trust some of Philly’s top chefs, who take their money and their mouths to Lakeside Chinese Deli at 9th and Race.

Dim Sum is typically eaten earlier in the day, and never for supper — hence Lakeside’s 8 p.m. closing time. But lest one accuse them of laziness, Lakeside makes everything fresh to order — an admirable feat indeed. Be sure to try the sticky rice steamed in lotus leaf, which is moist and alluringly aromatic. And who could resist the crunchy shrimp balls, as recommended by our waitress, which played springy minced shrimp against a deftly fried exterior. Although the steamed char sui (barbequed pork) buns are dry and unspectacular, the crispy triangle, which has the same filling, will rock your world. The rice noodle exterior, lightly dusted with sugar and briefly fried, is crispy, gooey, and acts as the perfect foil for its meaty filling.

At this level of execution and deliciousness, I would certainly be willing to fork up for Dim Sum. Objectively, and in all seriousness, Lakeside surpasses the likes of Susanna Foo’s in both respects. And yet, Lakeside is dirt-cheap, even for Chinatown: for roughly $15 a head, one can feast like a king.

Admittedly, I haven’t yet surveyed Philly’s Dim Sum scene extensively, having previously believed it to be barren, but I sincerely doubt that anywhere will trump Lakeside.

- Adley Zayan