Although there are requisite culinary outings to be made with a visiting friend (Reading Terminal Market, cheesesteaks), I always try to fit in something that will be new to both of us. This weekend, my discovery was August, a BYO near the south end of the Italian Market.

After wandering up and down 9th Street watching vendors pack up discount dish soap and fresh produce, we headed over to August. The neon lights of Geno’s slowly faded as we headed into the darkening neighborhood and found August on a residential street corner. As soon as we entered the tiny restaurant, we were enveloped in rich aromas wafting from the open kitchen. Even though it was early, we were lucky to get a table without a reservation and, almost immediately, menus were placed in front of us and our coats were whisked away. I was prepared to love the place.

Expecting thoughtfully updated classic Italian food, I was surprised to see Asian influences on the menu such as sautéed broccoli rabe with ginger and the wasabi tuna starter. I stayed away from the more exotic dishes and joined my friend in ordering the ricotta gnocchi with the sauce of the day — basil with mushrooms and asparagus — despite my skepticism over eating (and serving) asparagus in December.

It wasn’t the asparagus that proved problematic, however, when we received our perfectly sized portions of gnocchi. The large slices of mushrooms were woefully undercooked. Conversation came to a halt as we gnawed on the rubbery fungi. “I have to get through this,” was the determined proclamation of my companion as she worked on a particularly resistant chanterelle.

Despite my disappointment over the near-inedible mushrooms, I decided before I even finished my entrée that the place deserved a second chance. The flavors in the dish were good, the gnocchi soft and dense, and our water glasses were never left less than half-empty. The timing of the service was impeccable and the dessert menu looked promising, especially the banana bread pudding, which gently pleaded with me to be ordered. We asked only for the check, having purchased cannolis from Isgro Pastries before coming to the restaurant.

The final touch, a packet of peanut M&Ms accompanying the check, softened my judgment of August and confirmed my decision to return.

August, 1247 South 13th Street (Wharton St.)
215.468.5926